The Season Simply Seasoned

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  • “John Thorne’s Mouth Wide Open is a journey around his own kitchen,” writes Linda Kulman in Insatiable Appetites, her recent review of current cookery books for holiday giving. Mr. Thorne’s “exhaustive essays, most of which were previously published in his food letter, Simple Cooking, tackle all manner of dishes, including some, like fried eggs, that might seem beneath consideration.” 
  • Or the Bacon and Dandelion Sandwich eloquently considered in Serious Pig, Mr. Thorne’s 1996 bedside-table-grounding book. It anchored my bedside table for a full summer. John Thorne’s writing enthralls me. I can’t imagine a food more worth consideration than a fried egg. Unless it’s a fried egg sandwich, which one would have to call a dish rather than a food.
  • It must be noted that on the Simple Cooking site there is a section headed up Midnight Snacks. Here is a review of Mouth Wide Open.
  • File under Fluffernutter: Linda is a friend of mine, but obviously I have not investigated her past closely enough. Googled her just now and came upon the story of her courtship and marriage to Ralph Alswang in Weddings:Vows, the NY Times Style column. Now that got my attention. Surprised I missed it the first time around. Had she been on the front page and I had missed it – totally understandable as I turn straight to the fluff.  Need I say more about the depth of my intellect? You could drown in it, if you believe that a person can drown in an inch of water.
  • An appetizer from the Vows piece: Mr. Alswang, 33, says he fell in love with her there and was especially taken by her stylish black coat and her appetite. ”I said to her, ‘Can I get you something?’ ” he remembered. ”And out of her mouth came, ‘I want a chili dog with the works.’ ” He added, ”Then, like an old pro, she got this huge chili dog into her mouth, while holding a drink. I thought, ‘That’s an amazing person.’ ”

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