Books of the Times
Everything But the Squeal, Eating the Whole Hog in Northern Spain, By John Barlow
Pig: It’s What’s for Dinner In Northwestern Spain
By DWIGHT GARNER
Published: November 25, 2008
A bit of it:
Pork is, definitively, no longer the other white meat. In the hands of today’s chefs and committed eaters, it’s dark, glistening, salty, fatty, soulful and sinful – closer to Howlin’ Wolf‘s music than Pat Boone’s. A little of it will make anything taste better. Try smearing some drippings on the cover of an old Harold Robbins paperback.
With mustard and onion, to ride!
A short excerpt from the jump:
It’s not much fun, over the course of a few hundred pages, to listen to a writer (unless that writer is A.J. Liebling) rhapsodize about what he is putting in his mouth. This is why the photographs and recipes in food magazines are, 9 times out of 10, more welcome than the feature articles.
Makes one puff up with pride to be a food stylist.
The Lunch Encounter 