Category Archives: Bread

Pierce’s is a Rightful Mecca

but couldn’t the bread be better?
https://youtu.be/NPDL5ouZiwc

A couple days ago, on the drive home from North Carolina, I made my regular stop off  US Route 64 for lunch at Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que.

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Pierce’s was first introduced to me in the mid-80’s when it was still just a shack. You ordered your food at the window and ate it in the car.

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Now Pierce’s is a full-on restaurant with seating for what looks like a couple hundred, a giant parking lot, lots of souvenir merchandise and a fancy awning.

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The smokehouse still pumps out clouds of fragrant grey clouds, the bbq is still delicious and the sides continue to sing righteous back-up.

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I like this place. I like the food. A lot. Pierce’s is popular, understandable.

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The staff seem to take pride in their work.

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They seem happy and well-fed.

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Outside seating is my preference, particularly on such a pretty day as it was.

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High praise for the meat, accolades for the greens, but why oh why is the bread so bad? Believe me, I ate every bite and licked my fingers. That said and done,  I cannot be the only bbq lover who prays for the current era of artisanal-local-heritage to tap its wand on the sad rolls that carry the pulled pork. Tap, tap, tap, fairy godmother of meat, make the bread better.

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Thank you.

Romancing the Stone

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Bruno’s Health Bread is cowboy bread. Venturing out on its own, no superficial ingratiation, tough as spurs, strong as a 48-hour brisket.

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Brought to us by express locomotive from Chicago, Kate Strong shoveling coal from the tender, we are butter ready at the station.

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Effective as a door stop, although a tragedy to put it so low, Bruno’s Health Bread triggered a memorable bread purchasing Whole Foods encounter. Bagged loaf of “peasanty” looking bread in hand – how quaint the noble notion of a peasant – with strident slashes in the unpeasanty plastic.  Cavalier comment to the clerk that the crust looked sharp, almost dangerous. “You could cut yourself on that bread!!” said the clerk. I took it home with taming on my mind.

Bruno’s bread is smooth on top, no worry that you could cut yourself on it, nor will it slit its bag to escape. You could, however, lose a tooth to Bruno’s. Worth it, particularly when loaded. We’re broken now, our teeth ready to tear into a boulder, if buttered. The stuff is delicious. Virtue you need a vice to slice.IMG_5213Health bread is a total mind-body work out. Unsliced as it comes, we were advised by Kate to slice it – THIN! – and then freeze. So we did, and pull it out as needed, toast it up and cover with fillings and toppings that are up to the task. Forte. Stinky cheese, shaved brussels sprouts, hot summer arugula, dense homemade blackberry jam, onion hunks and always always butter to lubricate. Once you get the hang of Health Bread you feel deprived, limp, pinched, without it.
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And then there is unhealth bread, the Bacon Rolls, also baked by Bruno’s. As you might imagine if you have experience with 14-year-old boys, these went over well with  my roommate, pork-product-boy. The anti-health bread, bodily speaking. Uber-health, spiritually speaking.  As the minister said, spoken like a true Unitarian, “Let it be so. Let it be so. Let it be so.”Bacon rollls

Toast Poast Number: “Two Words”

Screen Shot 2014-01-21 at 8.24.01 AM Quality Hyper-Local Cartooning

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“I have two words for you,” said Elle Kasey, “Artisanal Toast.”
Barbara and Liz sent links with urgent notes as well.

Two words: READ THIS

Read and be amazed. Gorgeousness.

How did toast become the latest artisanal food craze?

Screen Shot 2014-01-21 at 8.28.50 AM It has officially become too late for me to get a toast tattoo. Medium or dark? Butter or jam?

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“Generously”, ha ha. The Toaster Museum Foundation generously took about two dozen old toasters off my hands. The house was filling up.

Letter from the Toaster Museum Foundation President:

The Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn has acquired the entire collection of The Toaster Museum Foundation and they will stay largely together although we are uncertain when they will have the toasters ready for public viewing. Additionally the Henry Ford has committed to preserving the Internet resource toaster.org, which has so well served researchers and students over the years.

The Toaster Museum has attracted a great deal of press coverage over the years – from mentions on Garrison Keillor’s, “A Prairie Home Companion” and the Oprah Winfrey Show to radio interviews around the globe to being featured in magazines as diverse as “Saveur” and Russian “Elle” – and we are gratified that the public will now have the opportunity to see this unique collection in person.

We are toast-devouring sheeple (as opposed to “toast devouring sheeple”) and I love us for it.

I’m Home!

Our house is a very, very, very fine house
With squirrels in the yard


Life’s pretty much always been kinda hard
Some things are easy cause of you-know-who

I can do anything if it is for him. The one who reminds me what the season is – back-to-school.  Fall, in other … word. Cute food is not in our vocabulary anymore. Were I to mention it, I would be shut down in a middle school minute.

Still, the yellow buses are obstructing traffic with their one-armed warning and I’m almost teary-eyed from the reminders of circular seasons come and gone and coming round again.

Home is where the bruised and burnished heart is. He may pack his own lunch, but – for a few more years – he carries the lunch box home again.

Absence of Color Provokes Colorful Commentary

White bread can be a loaded loaf. Or it can just be bread. 


White bread, like vanilla, is one of those foods that’s become a metaphor for blandness. But it wasn’t always that way.

Aaron Bobrow-Strain, professor of food politics at Whitman College, tells Weekend Edition’s Rachel Martin that white bread was a deeply contentious food — ever since the early 1900s’ ideas of “racial purity” up to the counter-cultural revolution of the 1960s. He documents that cultural legacy in his new book,White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf.

Read on.

How did we get here? So many food choices. So many complex choices. When did eating become so political?

The last hundred years of so, as food and politics have become closer and closer bedfellows, stuck as tight as cheese on grilled bread, every cent one spends on food becomes more of a statement. Your voice is in your wallet. Read up and then speak up. With authority and thrift.

High Rise

Did I know what I was getting into when Kinnaird+Mangan enlisted me to build a “bread centerpiece” for an American Bakers Association reception? No. Do I ever really know what I am getting myself into? Nah.  A list of required baked goods was sent to me. 
I gave it thought. While driving. Just before sleep. Over coffee. Waiting in line.

Gathering and foraging took me to the grocery, craft store, pharmacy and hardware. Several times each. Gathering and foraging. Plotting, scheming, thinking.
 
I made a trial run and realized I didn’t like the look of the metal rods and dowels. They needed texture. Floury texture. So I painted them with diluted glue and rolled them in flour. Much better.
 
I built some bread cascades with spray glue and wooden skewers. Pretty nice. Except for the big ugly holes at the end. What could go there? Set that aside for later.

The bread and rolls were left to dry so they would be strong and could support one another in a tall vessel. Some bread was too dry and shattered when I tried to stack it, or pierce it. Begin again.
 Cheerios in the top layer spilled down and filled every nook and cranny. Should have seen that coming. Begin again, cheerios on the bottom.  Better. I liked it much better with added pita. Dry pita stacks nicely, asymetrically, leaving airy spaces.    Some bread I coated with spray varnish to prevent cracking and chipping. These half bits were used to encircle the dowels, crusts facing out.

Borrowed a pair of heavy duty snippers, a metal lopper thingy that did the trick in trimming excess rods. Then I wrapped it all up to go. Layers of soft cellophane, like tissue on a bee hive do.

Okay, I had a handle on the main affair. How was I going to get it there?  Call in the transportation engineer. The handling and shipping department stepped up with cardboard, bubble wrap, yesterdays Post, and a three step delivery operation.    Oh, but first, the crowning  – actually, more of a train than a crown – touch. A garland. All decent affairs require garlands.    Signed and sealed, the caterer picked up the box – my car did not have the headroom. On the day of the event, her staff ferried it on to the site where I met them.  Parts assembled, final tweaks made, lights, camera, no action. A still life that still had life.

And then I had a drink.