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Chow Mein and Other Delights

Whipped cream and other delights

Happy National Sandwich Day with whipped cream on top!

The Conversation gabs about our favorite topic. Slide into a comfy Lunch Encounter booth, order yourself a snack and find your reading glasses. Sandwiches define and unite our world.

Everyone has a favorite sandwich, often prepared to an exacting degree of specification: Turkey or ham? Grilled or toasted? Mayo or mustard? White or whole wheat?

We reached out to five food historians and asked them to tell the story of a sandwich of their choosing. The responses included staples like peanut butter and jelly, as well as regional fare like New England’s chow mein sandwich.

Together, they show how the sandwiches we eat (or used to eat) do more than fill us up during our lunch breaks. In their stories are themes of immigration and globalization, of class and gender, and of resourcefulness and creativity.

Read more here.

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Thank you, Mr. Levy, for the sandwichy linkage on this noteworthy day.

Identifying As

Salty pork roll vs. Taylor Ham debate may rest in politicians’ hands

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Two competing bills are before the Legislature on whether New Jersey’s official sandwich should be pork roll, egg and cheese or Taylor Ham, egg and cheese. 

TRENTON — Is it pork roll or Taylor Ham? The processed meat product is a staple of breakfast sandwiches in New Jersey, but the question of what to call it has long divided the state. Read on here.

And you may weigh in, as well. Are we defined by what we eat or by what we name what we eat? Lord have merciful pork product, it’s a rivalry – Taylor Ham or Pork Roll! Not being from New Jersey I am free to like both equally. Whew, that’s a load off my identifier.

Rolls of thanks to Joan Lebow, New Jersey sandwich sleuth.

The Cheese Touch

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I suspect that some of the earliest sandwiches were cheese sandwiches. Cheese endures at room temperature – or warmer – through a picnic, through the morning until lunchtime, on a buffet, at the beach. There is a cheese to happily pair with any sandwich fixing.

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Lucky Peach has just printed this story about American cheese, an arena that has become more and more exciting in  recent history. As much as the word “artisan” has become a word to mock, one must rejoice in artisanal American cheeses. Period.

An alpine-style Upland cheese from the state of Wisconsin would be make a beautiful grilled cheese and turkey on say, Friday, November 27 this year.

A Short History of American Cheesemaking

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The Extraordinariness of the Ordinary

The Surprise Loaf is everywhere! Featured in the New York Times Magazine earlier this month. Found on Pinterest, the warpiest of time warps. Betty Crocker still lauds it – such a steady Betty. Hurrah. Whoa, she even has one “iced” in hummus. Not sure I can wrap my mind/mouth around that.

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And here again, found inside my own home – thanks to my web-surfing mom – at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. Super apropos, natch.

Is it true museum people have more fun? YES. No cobwebs and corn husks for the folks behind “Tasting the 1930’s: An experiment in congealed salads and other one-dish wonders“. Nosirree Bob, apparently they had a blast with gelatin. GELATIN. Did you know it is super source for protein?

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And the biggest surprise? The Surprise Loaf itself. It was assembled like a cake, consisting of three tiers of bread separated by layers of a coleslaw-like mixture and relish, with a whipped combination of cream cheese and “snappy” cheddar cheese spread like icing on the outside. Garnished with parsley and radish roses, the Surprise Loaf proved to be yet another example of a fancy-looking entrée that used inexpensive ingredients.

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I remember the Silent Hostess having an illustration of an aproned, tray-carrying, headless woman. Could that be so? Here is the true Silent Hostess in all her glory. The ice queen, cold-shouldered, and silent as stone.

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Pause

It can be powerful. Pause. For a sandwich. Pause long enough and you are loafing. Loafing beyond a snack. Loafing to the tune – no, symphony – of a condiment-laced, triple-deckered, fresh butter-smeared, grilledad to a grisp-crisp, sandwich of rich-wich. An opus of a pause.

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“Party Sandwich Loaf”

Betty Crocker’s Absurd, Gorgeous, Atomic-Age Creations

Cattelan and Ferrari photographed dishes from the 1971 Betty Crocker Recipe Card Library, styling the food “with humor and without mercy,” Cattelan said. “These dishes are a triumph of imagination and gelatin. They have been conjured from a time when optimism was a more important ingredient than anxiety.”

Did Cattelan and Ferrari pause? I think yes. Optimism thwarted becomes anxiety. Mercy without humor becomes judgement. And now  I must loaf to ponder that. Bring my tiara! And put some mustard on it.

Photographs by Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari for The New York Times. Stylist: Francesca Cefis. Set designer: Charlotte Mello Teggia. Food stylist: Emanuela Tediosi, assisted by Lorenzo Comolla. Hair and makeup stylist: Lorenzo Zavatta.
Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari are artists from Italy. Since 2009, they have created photographs for their magazine, Toiletpaper, and other publications.
Tamar Adler is a contributing writer for the magazine and for Vogue.

Yes, it’s easy to make risible anything bold. And also not difficult to feel tenderness for the element of human spirit that takes something so mundane as lunch to the pinnacle of ridiculousness.

On My Bucket List: Be Dan Pashman

Are hot dogs sandwiches?

The great John Hodgman and I are embroiled in a feud over that very question. I say yes, he says no. He’s even talked trash about me on his podcast.

On November 10 at the Bell House in Brooklyn, we’ll meet face-to-face for the first time to settle this once and for all, in a debate moderated by WNYC’s Brooke Gladstone, host of On The Media. The debate will be taped for a future episode of The Sporkful podcast.

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Sliver, Slice, Slab, Slob

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Do restaurants make smaller sandwiches for women?

The takeaway:

“I just don’t think that sandwich makers are trying to impress people all that often.”

Polandia

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Poland’s National Obsession with Sandwiches

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Foreigners, especially those from Anglo-Saxon countries, are often taken aback by our “kanapki”. These open sandwiches we eat at every possible mealtime leave the “filling on top” exposed to the elements, unlike in so-called “normal” sandwiches.

Kanapki (from the French word “canapés”) appeared in Poland at the end of the 19th century thanks to French cuisine. Smaller open sandwiches, or canapés, were actually called “tartinki”. The names have a certain irony here though, as “tartines” in France are actually large open sandwiches, while, as everybody knows, canapés are bite-sized.

Read on here.

Tartinki. What’s not to want? Such a sweet and appetizing-zing word. Not to be confused with open-faced Chinese poker.

Smørrebrød, the open-faced Danish sandwiches that truly are a part of everyday Danish life, are relations to tartinki, of course. There is no escaping all of our connections, culinary or otherwise. The indigenous foods of Poland cannot be much different from those of lower Scandinavia. Take away the man-made borders and you get earth made connections of climate and soil. Right? Right.

Denmark’s sandwiches are those that I know best, but I would bet my bottom pound of butter that there are chain-strong links all across northern Europe that make a dot-to-dot map of open-faced sandwiches, using many of the same or similar ingredients – butter, shrimp, eggs, cheese, smoked fish, caviar, cucumber and all the other abundances of cool, four-season climates.

The urge to visit Poland never hit me so hard as it did when I read about a shared obsession. After food, what binds us the most? Desire, disposition, oh my.

Better Eating Through Technology

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It is one of life’s nagging mysteries: Why is a sandwich you order at a restaurant so invariably and intensely better than a sandwich you make at home? Read on here.

The sliders with this story are super fun and they let you take a dissected view of sandwich interiors.  Go NYTimes! Bravo!


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All For One and One for All American

Marvelous sandwich feature by Sam Sifton in the New York Times, April 14, 2015, a story that makes me crazy to jump in the car. The days are long and hot, ripe for a sandwich safari.

Mine will be mostly close to home this summer, but (I comfort myself) not to worry, sandwich evolution is just that, an evolution. For all that is seemingly missed – FOMO alert! – there is an equal accumulation of newly emerged and newly born classics.

Any summer will do, any locale, near or far. As much as it seems the world has all been discovered, it has not! Do not despair (I comfort myself), each day and sandwich is new. Seek no further than the fridge, the garden or the strip mall. Eyes peeled.

Sandwiches like the sloppy Joe exist all across the United States — local heroes that defy easy categorization, from the expanse of Indiana’s deep-fried pork tenderloin sandwich to the crusty bite of Baltimore pit beef.

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