Category Archives: NY

Do You Knowa the Balboa?

Sandwich Worship

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Credit Gregg Vigliotti for The New York TimesScreen Shot 2016-03-09 at 4.38.34 PMScreen Shot 2016-03-09 at 4.33.53 PM

“Who doesn’t like a Balboa?” Anthony Russo asked on the phone.

His question was rhetorical.

“Beef, cheese and garlic dressing on big old Italian bread” — he sounded so enthusiastic that I wanted to hoverboard right over. “Everybody likes a Balboa — except for vegetarians.”

Mr. Russo was speaking from Russo’s Delicatessen in Ardsley, where Balboa sales, not surprisingly, are “really good.” Read on here.

Balboa research on the google made me wonder about Rocky Balboa. Then I read on in the Times. That’s funny, I am not alone in my conjecture.

The bread specified is the Bastone. Do you know the Bastone? Again, I’m in the dark. What gives?! Here is a Bastone – seeded and not – also known as Old World Italian.

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Here is Ardsley, about 20 miles north of Manhattan. Would make a terrific lunch encounter for those of you in New York. Or for those of us en route to New England…Screen Shot 2016-03-09 at 4.40.03 PM

Thank you Neal Becton, dedicated sandwich man, of Som Records for the sandwich sleuthing. The Balboa is new to me and warrants a safari.

Two Borough Sandwich Safari

Striding into the Lunch Encounter, none other than that handsome devil, Charles Walston, with sandwich tales to tell. Sat himself down, spun once on the vinyl-topped stool and unspooled the following:

The gnawing in my stomach wasn’t hunger.

During a visit to New York last weekend, my daughter and I had arranged to meet our niece/cousin on Saturday afternoon. She suggested Astoria, Queens, because she was considering an apartment there, and she had heard good things about the diversity and increasing options in the area.

I had a foreboding that the experience would churn up déjà vu moments, and not the good kind – remembrances of places past where the tide of trendiness had washed over old spots that felt authentic, and where I would wind up feeling like a rube at the county fair.

And yes, there was some of that. A furnishings/gift store offered unimaginative and mostly overpriced stock, nothing we hadn’t seen before. It felt a little sad, a reminder that life itself sometimes doesn’t seem like enough so we have to pretend our tiny orbit is the center of everything, and all of it just winds up seeming the same.

But then we wandered into Broadway Silk, piled high with bolts of colorful cotton, rayon and yes silk too, old radios and sewing machines, and two longtime proprietors (and their cat) who assured me “we aren’t going anywhere.”

After a while we started thinking about food. We passed a barbeque place that smelled pretty good, but could have been in any gentrifying zip code in the country. Astoria has long had a strong Greek and Cypriot presence so we peeked into a couple of those places, but couldn’t tell if they were local treasures or clip joints.

Ms. niece/cousin noticed that a place with good notices on Yelp was just a few blocks away. So we walked there, and the painted sign in the window – Il Bambino – looked reassuring. When we saw the outdoor seating area in back, we sat down.

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Comforting signage in Astoria
Photo by Charles Walston

The menu was mostly paninis, well-executed with some interesting combinations (mine was speck and asiago and a red pepper puree.) A salad was fresh and generous and daring enough, even if the beets had probably come out of a jar. We polished off a large bowl of olives. Most of the other diners seemed to be from the neighborhood, although don’t ask me what gave me that idea.

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Panini at Il Bambino
Photo by Charles Walston

So we got what we were looking for – a meal that wasn’t life-changing but satisfying and fairly priced, in a place that felt like part of a real neighborhood.

The next day in Brooklyn we were under the wing of a long-time resident, and she steered us to Crown Heights where we found Lincoln Station.

IMG_5135The menu was more ambitious and varied than Il Bambino, but nothing about the place felt fleeting or too trendy.

IMG_5113 The lovely young man behind the counter took our order cheerfullyIMG_5115 Lincoln Station bustles comfortably on a Sunday morning

IMG_5116 Floorspace to spare and a good viewIMG_5120 Crown Heights on a sunny summer SundayIMG_5121 Egg Sandwich with BaconIMG_5123 Avocado and Egg Sandwich

A comforting space for a nice meal before an uneventful ride home.

IMG_5127 Broccoli and Ricotta Sandwich with super crispy friesIMG_5130Side of kale

Lincoln Station seemed like a restaurant that has endured growing pains along with the neighborhood and come out the better for it.

You Say Sandwich and I Say…Sandwich

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This is how they do it at the Times (above).

Mid-blizzard, juke box lights glowing warmly, the door to the Lunch Encounter swung open and in stepped Barbara Stratton, in a hat, stomping snow off her boots. Barbara’s got a sandwich groove on at Cafe Clementine and she stopped in to spread the good word.

“Porketta,” she whispered. “And gowda.” Screen Shot 2015-03-03 at 8.15.20 AM

“Really,” thought I. We love em both but know them in culinary pig Latin apparently. Gooooda. And porchetta, emphasis on the CH.

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If it roasts slow and low, as her porchetta does, we want in, so  I peppered Ms Stratton with questions. Details. I need the details. Must. Reproduce.

Barbara elaborated, “The sandwich idea was given to me by the butcher at Cronigs. He told me he has eaten it several times in Philly and in his opinion it beats the cheesesteak hands down. I made a few sandwiches with the left over porchetta. They were good but I think they were raised to total EAT ME status by the long hot. I was poking around looking for the sandwich on Philadelphia food sites when I discovered the pepper. It is delicious and easy because you don’t peel or de-seed and it adds a little heat which lands with a yeah!! on the tongue.”

I think she skipped a few steps. My tongue watered, my brain rained pork fat and I was cornfused.

“So, um, what’s on it?” I wondered with deep desire. And what’s it on, I pondered, dreaming of New York breads. There is always always some spectacular and new New York bread source, doncha know. Outloud I said, “Porchetta, long hot and…?”IMG_1638

“The long hot gets its stem removed. Then toss in olive oil and salt and roast until blistered.”

Gotcha.

“We blanch the broccoli rabe, stir fry in oil with garlic and cool. The broccoli rabe needs to be covering most of the pork in a thin layer because you want a yummy taste of everything in each bite.”

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Aha. Will do.

Grandaisy Bakery is in my neighborhood- or just use something that has a nice platform and will toast up crispy.”Screen Shot 2015-03-03 at 8.46.34 AM

“We reheat in a hot oven until the cheese melts-about 7 minutes. Also leave the lid off of the sandwich so it has a chance to toast.”

IMG_1637Nice platform, lid off, done.

And the meat, the meat, the meat, who is the mistress of the meat? Melissa Clark, mebbe?

“Yes,” she confirmed, “I used the “Melissa Clark recipe from the Times. The epiphany struck me after I spent 40 minutes scoring the fat on the one I made on the Vineyard. USE A SERRATED KNIFE! It works like a charm and is no big deal. Just make sure that the fat is cold.”

“I’m gonna set a day aside and dedicate myself to this affair,” sez I grandly.

“Alas,” Ms Stratton warns me, “the porchetta is a two day affair, what with the time to marinate and all—you could make/assemble all of the components on day one, then roast the pork and assemble the sandwich on day two. Also, don’t use a really aged gouda-too overpowering. Just a middle aged and a thin slice-the poke is the thang. ( I did ramp up the crushed red peppers and garlic in Ms. M’s recipe.)”

 So, to recap. One two three GO!

Bottom of ciabatta brushed with oil and a long hot, pork, broccoli rabe, aged gouda, top of ciabatta.

“Happy eatin!” sez B.
One teensy dete stickin’ in my craw. Did she say provolone or gouda??
And have I mentioned that Barbara is the best cook I know? She is a cook among cooks and we are talking peaks.
 
 

No So Li’l, L’iL Abner

My girlhood comic crush, the “mattress tester” and teen of great appetite (the boots, the hair, the brawn-not-brains!)  must’ve known he’d really made it when – no, not when his strip had a readership of 60 million – but when the legendary Carnegie Deli named a sandwich, a gargantuan hot brisket sandwich, after him.

Abner, “a paragon of innocence in a sardonically dark and cynical world” seems positively post-modern. Politically correct? Most probably not.

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 Carnegie Deli

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This is the only image I could find of the L’il Abner.
Not much more information to be found here. #sad #where’sthegravy?

Lunch Encounter denizens, have you eaten a Li’l Abner? Did it adequately honor its namesake? “Impossibly dense”? Strong and sweet-natured? Please write and report. Until the day I experience the Abner personally, I eagerly await your Dogpatchian dispatches.

What We Talk About When We Talk About Sandwiches

LRoy plays the kid card. Forced to eat at Katz’s AGAIN.

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“Some might say it’s a tourist trap. Some may say it’s overpriced ($20 for a pastrami on rye). Or too crowded. Or whatever. But when it’s all my carnivorous boy can talk about for weeks in advance, whaddya going to do?”

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“With fries that match the ‘wiches in quality and healthy eating, and Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry and Cream sodas to wash ’em down, Katz’s really is a destination worth every bit of effort. On a rainy Xmas Eve Eve, picked up Dirty Uncle Bob, got a spot right out front, waited no more than ten minutes, got a good table, and chowed most mightily. So what are you complaining about already?!

Love the people too. All good. Can’t wait to go back.”

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Dopamine Bump Anyone?

From My-Main-Sandwich-Man in Boston, LRoy:

Want to stir up a ruckus? Put together a list of the top any-number of any-thing.  You really want to start a flame war, pick the top sandwiches in New York!

Here’s a list which is making me drool though I just had dinner. Some of these look easy to agree with (and no matter what, I always include Katz’s pastrami), but others – broccoli classic?

I hear ya about the broccoli thingamabob. People talk about it though – the thing at No. 7 Sub. It takes skill to get a broccoli sub on any list other than Best Broccoli Subs.

So many sandwiches…

The 13 Best Sandwiches in NYC

Screen Shot 2014-12-08 at 8.29.51 AMAlidoro

Screen Shot 2014-12-08 at 9.42.50 AMKatz’s

Come For the Wallpaper, Stay For a Sandwich

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Truth be told, the sandwich was not earth shaking, as expected. Much ado about the chicken parm on the internets. The floor beneath us was calm, although the wallpaper danced, now, didn’t it?

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Parm is small and cozy and feels old. And not as affectations.

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These three hombres – can you name them (Roger Maris, Yogi Berra, Mickey Mantle)? I could not but when told, had an apt joke, the one about the talking dog, “Whatsa matter, I shoulda said, Mickie Mantle?”

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Would I/we go back? Yes, said the fine, fine bf. Vegetable sides are mighty fine – Brussel sprouts, giardiniera, unusual cucumber salad – and I did not struggle to put away the chicken parm.  Easy to picture a case of, “Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.”

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Alidoro, I Adore You

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It’s tiny inside, no vestibule to catch the arctic breezes. Loiterers not welcome, seemingly – just guessing from the vibe. So yeah, I’m in love. All the world needs this place on their block.

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Anyone can love an easy sandwich joint. So yeah, we go for this one, get your sandwich and hit the road. Easy in the eating though. Alidoro, we adore you.

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I got a note ahead of time from Barbara, with whom we would lunch. “FYI, Yelp is not kind to Alidoro.” So yeah, Yelp you big bully, step off!  We stepped on. Oh yeah, what a sandwich!

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In plain English, the sandwiches of Alidoro are superb. Even if you gotta keep your coat on in the chilly months. So yeah, we’ll be back. In the meanwhile, Alidoro, please don’t go out of business. And Yelp, mind your own business. Step off, close up, shutter already, would ya?
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Spoken Through Lips Greased By Pastrami

From MMSMINYJAF (My-Main-Sandwich-Man-in-NY, JAF) who has his fingers on the pulse of pastrami. At Katz’s Delicatessen the pulse is hoppin’! Bauer and Dean Publishers have gotten the sacred word from the whispering pickles.

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The pictures in this tome are almost as nice as the ones I took when there with MMSMINY a few years ago.

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Photographs by Baldomero Fernandez, text by Jake Dell, edited by Beth Daugherty

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Go Big and Go Home (to ponder your insignificance)

I wasn’t aware that it had gone away...

The return of the Super-Colossal Economy-Size Sandwich

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Super Colossal Architects

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We humans love giganticness. My theory is, the bigger the sandwich the tinier we feel, the tinier we feel the freer we become. Colossally free. 

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Thank you, Inspector Lewis.