Category Archives: Sandwich Joints

You Say Sandwich and I Say…Sandwich

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This is how they do it at the Times (above).

Mid-blizzard, juke box lights glowing warmly, the door to the Lunch Encounter swung open and in stepped Barbara Stratton, in a hat, stomping snow off her boots. Barbara’s got a sandwich groove on at Cafe Clementine and she stopped in to spread the good word.

“Porketta,” she whispered. “And gowda.” Screen Shot 2015-03-03 at 8.15.20 AM

“Really,” thought I. We love em both but know them in culinary pig Latin apparently. Gooooda. And porchetta, emphasis on the CH.

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If it roasts slow and low, as her porchetta does, we want in, so  I peppered Ms Stratton with questions. Details. I need the details. Must. Reproduce.

Barbara elaborated, “The sandwich idea was given to me by the butcher at Cronigs. He told me he has eaten it several times in Philly and in his opinion it beats the cheesesteak hands down. I made a few sandwiches with the left over porchetta. They were good but I think they were raised to total EAT ME status by the long hot. I was poking around looking for the sandwich on Philadelphia food sites when I discovered the pepper. It is delicious and easy because you don’t peel or de-seed and it adds a little heat which lands with a yeah!! on the tongue.”

I think she skipped a few steps. My tongue watered, my brain rained pork fat and I was cornfused.

“So, um, what’s on it?” I wondered with deep desire. And what’s it on, I pondered, dreaming of New York breads. There is always always some spectacular and new New York bread source, doncha know. Outloud I said, “Porchetta, long hot and…?”IMG_1638

“The long hot gets its stem removed. Then toss in olive oil and salt and roast until blistered.”

Gotcha.

“We blanch the broccoli rabe, stir fry in oil with garlic and cool. The broccoli rabe needs to be covering most of the pork in a thin layer because you want a yummy taste of everything in each bite.”

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Aha. Will do.

Grandaisy Bakery is in my neighborhood- or just use something that has a nice platform and will toast up crispy.”Screen Shot 2015-03-03 at 8.46.34 AM

“We reheat in a hot oven until the cheese melts-about 7 minutes. Also leave the lid off of the sandwich so it has a chance to toast.”

IMG_1637Nice platform, lid off, done.

And the meat, the meat, the meat, who is the mistress of the meat? Melissa Clark, mebbe?

“Yes,” she confirmed, “I used the “Melissa Clark recipe from the Times. The epiphany struck me after I spent 40 minutes scoring the fat on the one I made on the Vineyard. USE A SERRATED KNIFE! It works like a charm and is no big deal. Just make sure that the fat is cold.”

“I’m gonna set a day aside and dedicate myself to this affair,” sez I grandly.

“Alas,” Ms Stratton warns me, “the porchetta is a two day affair, what with the time to marinate and all—you could make/assemble all of the components on day one, then roast the pork and assemble the sandwich on day two. Also, don’t use a really aged gouda-too overpowering. Just a middle aged and a thin slice-the poke is the thang. ( I did ramp up the crushed red peppers and garlic in Ms. M’s recipe.)”

 So, to recap. One two three GO!

Bottom of ciabatta brushed with oil and a long hot, pork, broccoli rabe, aged gouda, top of ciabatta.

“Happy eatin!” sez B.
One teensy dete stickin’ in my craw. Did she say provolone or gouda??
And have I mentioned that Barbara is the best cook I know? She is a cook among cooks and we are talking peaks.
 
 

One En-Xoco-ed Evening

Several years ago, in Chicago for a culinary history conference, (on foods of the Great Depression, no less. Cheery!) damp and chilly though it was, my mother, 85 at the time, and I walked out one foggy twilit evening for a sandwich at Xoco, one of Rick Bayless’ outposts, the one we felt most at ease affording.

I’ve learned, from travels past with my mom, that she wants to go anywhere and do anything. Eagerly. The slice does not fall far from the loaf.

To illustrate my point, a few years previous we were in Stockholm together in June – midsommer in fact,  for another culinary history conference (topic: feasts and famine, including starvation in Sweden when people resorted to eating shoes. Cheery!), wearing, even at high noon, every item of clothing we had packed, layer upon layer, against the wet and cold. Yes, high noon. (Not too much further north, Lapland, our chief destination, there was still snow on the ground.) Anyway, to make my point, there we were one evening, snuggled in our cozy Stockholm room, my mother in pajamas, comfortably reading, ostensibly settled in for the night. “I’m going down to the bar,” said I. “I’ll join you!” returned my mother, hopping up and grabbing a pair of slacks.

She’s a fantastic traveler, always game, never complains, even when walking a long distance in Delhi with a heel missing from one shoe.

We stayed along the river, near Marina City, one of Chicago’s fine architectural jewels. My mother had been in it when it was new, not too long after 1964. Fancy!

This is my picture of the sensational torta we shared. Atrocious picture, simply proof that we were there. I should be embarrassed to post it. I’m not.

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And the photo I grabbed from Xoco’s website so that you might be enticed to go. Tortas are, to my knowledge, one of the lesser known sandwiches outside of their place of origin. Nice sometimes to eat something with which you have not been beaten over the head first by television.

Chicago, rich in treasures,  is truly beautiful in all weather.  Rick Bayless is one of the city’s gems. Thank you, Mr. Bayless, for creating spots a person can pop into any old time, on any old dreary evening and get something genuinely good to eat.

Dopamine Bump Anyone?

From My-Main-Sandwich-Man in Boston, LRoy:

Want to stir up a ruckus? Put together a list of the top any-number of any-thing.  You really want to start a flame war, pick the top sandwiches in New York!

Here’s a list which is making me drool though I just had dinner. Some of these look easy to agree with (and no matter what, I always include Katz’s pastrami), but others – broccoli classic?

I hear ya about the broccoli thingamabob. People talk about it though – the thing at No. 7 Sub. It takes skill to get a broccoli sub on any list other than Best Broccoli Subs.

So many sandwiches…

The 13 Best Sandwiches in NYC

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All Manner of Superlative Sandwich

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Geoff’s Superlative Sandwiches

Mr. Daaaavid KMetzzzzzzzz sent me this. Whattaguy! Does he know sandwich? Heck yeah, he does!!

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While a student at RISD, one of my fave places to eat was Geoff’s Sandwiches on Benefit Street. It was in the #200’s on that street – less than a block from my apartment… I confess I couldn’t escape their sandwichtational pull!

It was the first place I encountered that had a vast assortment of offerings and great names to many of the sandwiches (this was circa 1973-78) – the Marlene Dietrich, the Jackie Kennedy, “Tosh’s Twister” – if my addled memory serves; hot ham and smoked turkey with melted swiss on rye with saurkraut and Tosh’s hot mayo/ horseradish sauce.

Geoff’s prepares most of their sandwiches in a pressure / steamer thing that melts the cheese and makes the ingredients get happy. Brought tears to my eyes from the heat, which I squelched with a cold Dr. Pepper. It wasn’t the Japanese wasabi mustard served today, but pretty close. There was something called a Bob Tomlinson that I also liked, but 30 years + have erased the memory of that one. Who was Bob Tomlinson?

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One of my favorite combos at home for “sammys”, as my wife calls them, is preserved tuna packed in oil, a slice of hot (or sweet) capacolla, sharp provolone and the light green inner leaves of Romaine lettuce, all served on a widish sourdough baguette. Ooh La la! Preserved tuna is not cheap, but what the hey? Half a jar goes a long way. I don’t make a steady diet of these bad boys.

Don’t you roll your eyes at me, tuna snobs! Make your own canned tuna. Oh yum!

These Are the Grazing Days

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Graze is in Madison, Wisconsin, a place that if you know me, you know I daydream about often. It’s my holy grail, existent only in my mind, I suppose. Were I to live there, my fantasy would go up in a smoke, like the odorous haze lifting off sileage.

Even under the cloud of the governor whose name will not grace this page, Madison remains civilized. Maybe even pushing smug. But, you know, they get it right in so many ways, self-satisfaction is forgivable.

Just a narrow isthmus, this town carries a blaze of of appetite-worthy sandwich destinations.

Graze is a little fancy. Check out the pickle plate. Maybe not a place for boys.

I was fortunate enough to have lunch with Joanie and Claire there a while back. We grazed, yes, but felt like fillies, not calves. Still do, we’re deep in our spring chicken phase.

Today, for example, we could have any of these for lunch. Madison is no flyover town, that’s for sure. Land at their sweet airport and catch yourself a Union cab to the square for a sun-bathed lunch. A lazy day…

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In a haze, got the doldrums? Wondering, “Do they make (fill in the blank) anymore ?”  Short daze getting to ya? They do me. Off we go to ~snap out of it~! Taking a graze through a fantasy – southern Wisconsin rolling hills, happy cows, sparkly lakes, a town that tends itself well. Take note – not accepting nays – love thyself, no grays.

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Come For the Wallpaper, Stay For a Sandwich

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Truth be told, the sandwich was not earth shaking, as expected. Much ado about the chicken parm on the internets. The floor beneath us was calm, although the wallpaper danced, now, didn’t it?

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Parm is small and cozy and feels old. And not as affectations.

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These three hombres – can you name them (Roger Maris, Yogi Berra, Mickey Mantle)? I could not but when told, had an apt joke, the one about the talking dog, “Whatsa matter, I shoulda said, Mickie Mantle?”

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Would I/we go back? Yes, said the fine, fine bf. Vegetable sides are mighty fine – Brussel sprouts, giardiniera, unusual cucumber salad – and I did not struggle to put away the chicken parm.  Easy to picture a case of, “Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.”

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Alidoro, I Adore You

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It’s tiny inside, no vestibule to catch the arctic breezes. Loiterers not welcome, seemingly – just guessing from the vibe. So yeah, I’m in love. All the world needs this place on their block.

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Anyone can love an easy sandwich joint. So yeah, we go for this one, get your sandwich and hit the road. Easy in the eating though. Alidoro, we adore you.

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I got a note ahead of time from Barbara, with whom we would lunch. “FYI, Yelp is not kind to Alidoro.” So yeah, Yelp you big bully, step off!  We stepped on. Oh yeah, what a sandwich!

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In plain English, the sandwiches of Alidoro are superb. Even if you gotta keep your coat on in the chilly months. So yeah, we’ll be back. In the meanwhile, Alidoro, please don’t go out of business. And Yelp, mind your own business. Step off, close up, shutter already, would ya?
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Now This is How You Slice It

NoVa Cover

The
Bubba Mike Sandwich
Is an
Oversized Sandwich with 1/2 lb. of Pulled Pork and a Texas Sausage Link, topped with Cheese Sauce, Creamy Coleslaw, and Original BBQ Sauce.
Find it at
Sweet Fire Donna’s.

Photo by Jonathan Timmes and Styling by Moi
Sandwich Saga in Northern Virginia Magazine
It’s a righteous reference.

It’s been a while since we were there and I’d forgotten the details on this legendary sandwich. To refresh my memory I called proprietess Donna and she gave me the Dagwoodian details.

Originally, Donna wanted to name her sandwich spot Bubba Mike’s, after her husband. He’s a Mike, all right, but he wasn’t comfortable being quite so publicly honored. They settled on Sweet Fire Donna’s.

When creating the menu Donna had her heart set on something mammoth, gargantuan, a “big mouth” sandwich.  The pulled pork, Texas sausage, cheese sauce, slaw and bbq sauce combo came to be. Perfect, she thought, but what to call her creation? Of course, she had just the name up her sleeve. The Bubba Mike!

“There’s a guy,” she told me, “who eats it three times a week.” She paused. “For lunch.”

Local Hero

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Capitol City Eats Talks About Shawafel

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Shawafel is refreshingly without gimmick. No horseshoes, mini golf, burlesque, craft beer, micro-bakery bread or other hipster touchstones.  The toum, however, is the difference maker and makes Shawafel a landmark. Immerse me in toum, please. Mark my soul with this glorious garlic cloud.

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The makings of chicken shawarma. Start with toum, end with fries, you can do no wrong.

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A few months back Chef/Owner Alberto  stopped by the photo studio of Renee Comet  with his chicken shewarma for a Washingtonian sandwich story. Renee was taking the pictures, I was wrangling the sandwiches, and Chef Alberto stayed for a bit of a visit. He impressed me. A former Jose Andres protege, Chef Alberto has struck out on his own and hit a home run.

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A person could hit a home run with one of these babies. They are rock solid and heavy  as hickory baseball bats.

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Mr. Walston, feeling the omniscent gaze of his vegan daughter, chose crispy cauliflower with tahini. She’s got him wrapped around her little finger, as it should be.

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Le French Fries doused gloriously with za’atar. We did not do a sludge test so I am taking an educated guess – sesame seeds, dried sumac, oregano and thyme. For sure on the sesame seeds and oregano.

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Lebanese cooks have a handle on the goods, folks. Sheeeeeewafel, sheeeeeebang, sheeeeeedoobeeeeeee. Do me!

 

 

Glad to Be Sticking My Tongue to Something It Doesn’t Freeze To

Thanks b to LRoy for the Tenacious Ignatius.
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Great laughs about a grotesque sandwich. I especially like this line:

Ian: You do kind of get the sense this is what would have happened on Day 38 of Noah’s Ark.

Sandwichy Monday

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