Category Archives: Sandwiches

Newest York Sandwiches

Once an icon, always an icon. Even while seeming to be gobbled up by retail homogeneity, New York is still the tops, our Metropolicon. An American beacon for eaters, New York, with it’s urban siblings Chicago and LA, is the newest and newsiest for sandwiches.

Those who pay attention to things sandwichy have made a list. Yes, another list, in – what I believe is good intent – an effort to narrow our choices and consequently broaden our happiness.

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New York City’s 15 Most Iconic Sandwiches

Thanks a 15-Million,  Sfeeha-Eeta-Girl Susan!

A Real Neal Meal

Screen Shot 2013-02-15 at 9.58.18 AMThe Southern Foodways Alliance, a hallowed outfit in this household, produces – on paper and electronically – a quarterly newsletter, Gravyread with relish by me religiously. Neither precious, nor breathless, nor kitschy, Gravy tells stories that orbit around food, a path that connects us all, rather than creating hierarchy,  competition or status.

Recently featured Neal’s Deli in Carrboro, NC, is a hop, skip and jump from Chapel Hill, a straight shot down 85 from DC, a drive just long enough to let a full-court-press appetite develop.

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It’ll Cure What Ails You

Bluegrass Kitchen in Charleston, West Virginia

Local beef brisket receives the house cure at Bluegrass Kitchen.  A cartoon smoke curlicue wraps itself around the awnings, wafting, wending, wisping it’s way from the local bacon smokehouse. It wouldn’t surprise me if the eggs were walked over by the neighborhood chickens, hand-crafted baskets tucked under their wings.

Take me back to Keeley Steele’s oil cloth, bumpy brick, pressed tin, paint luscious, velvet sauced paradise of textures.

I Will Return, Yes I Will Return

A taste of summer, summer, summer, summer, tasting much sweeter than wine.

Country bread
I lie in bed
Basil Pesto
With the solstice manifesto.
Olive oil
Longer days uncoil
Fresh mozzarella
Promising shorter stellar,
Tomato slices
Spiked light enticers,
Lettuce leaves
And warm day sheaves.

Photo by Renee Comet, Styling by Yours Truly

Building a Better Turkey Sandwich

Watershed moment at The Lunch Encounter. A recipe.

Do we need any more recipes? No we do not. That said, I’m feeling strong about posting this one.

Last Thanksgiving I was thinking about the ubiquitous turkey-cranberry sauce-stuffing sandwich and had an aha moment.

Do you like that stuffing in the sandwich? I do not, although the taste is good. What we need here is my brilliant idea – Stuffing Bread! I’m so excited about this that I can’t shut up. Toss a turkey leg into a crowd and you will hit one of my victims. Poor thing had to listen to me gaggle on and on and on about my brilliant idea.

Last year Thanksgiving and the leftover turkey got away from me. Stuffing bread was back-burnered. This year however – woo hoo – we did it. I’m all puffed up like the Tom himself.

Tell you what, stuffing bread is brilliant. I think so anyhow. Here’s how to make it yourself.

Stuffing Bread

Makes 2 9×5-inch loaves

2 cups finely diced celery, about 4 ribs
2 cups finely diced yellow onion, about 1 large
3 tablespoons unsalted butter

(This picture is only enough for one loaf. You will need double of everything for the full recipe.)

Put the butter, onion and celery into a medium sauté pan and set over low heat. Stir to coat the vegetables evenly with butter, then let cook slowly until very soft, about 10 minutes. A little browning is okay, but watch that they don’t get dark.

1 quart unsalted turkey or chicken stock, 1/4 cup set aside

Add the stock to the vegetables, turn the heat to high and bring the stock to a boil. Let boil until the liquid has reduced to what looks like 2 cups. It need not be exact, but it must be 2 cups or less, not more. Remove from heat and pour into a liquid (glass pitcher style) measuring cup. Add cold water to make 2 cups, if needed. Let the mixture cool until it is tepid.

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

Add the herbs to the stock mixture.

1 package active dry yeast (I like Hodgson Mill Fast Rise)
1 teaspoon sugar

Put the reserved 1/4 cup stock into a small bowl, add the yeast and sugar and stir until the yeast is completely wet. Set aside for 5 minutes.

5 cups all-purpose white flour
1 cup whole wheat flour

Put 4 cups white flour, 1 cup whole wheat flour, the stock mixture and the yeast mixture into the bowl of the standing mixer. Using the hook attachment, blend until a  dough begins to form. Add the remaining cup of flour and let it spin for a minute or so. The dough should be soft and not sticky.

This can all be done by hand, too, of course.

Water, as needed

If it is dry, add more water a couple tablespoons at a time.

1 tablespoon salt
Freshly ground pepper, black or white

As the dough is mixing, add salt and a generous grinding of pepper.

Knead the dough, by machine or by hand on a lightly floured surface, until it is smooth and elastic, adjusting with flour or water if necessary.

Butter a bowl, put the dough in it, cover with a tea towel and set in a warm place to rise for about an hour. It should double in size.

When it is twice its original size, punch the dough down. If you have time, cover it again and let it rise a second time. If not, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and shape it into two loaves, pinching any seams together tightly.

Grease two 9×5-inch loaf pans and set the dough in them, seam side down. Cover with the tea towel and let the dough rise again until it is almost double.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Bake the loaves in the center of the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F and bake for about 30 more minutes. The bread should be nicely browned and sound hollow when you tap on the top.

 Let cool on a rack. Turn out and let cool completely before slicing.

Really tasty toast, too!

There. Hap hap happy. We dignified that bird.

 

Critically Massive

Holy Macaroni, Mac + Cheesewich Strikes Again!

Between-bread critical mass.

Tried to tell you it was a thing. Thing, as in, thing being an epically benign word for a cataclysmically crackin’ happenin’. The mac and cheese sandwich.


Pechluck

Occurring across borders.  Inter and intra-incidents.

THE PINNACLE (see above)!: Big A** Sandwiches

You saw it HERE!:  Heister’s

THERE!:  Watchung Delicatessen

And EVERYWHERE!:  It’s a Thing Hotdogs

It’s official!: Adam Richman’s Best Sandwich in America – Big Ass Roast Beef

So, yeah, you don’t have to take it from just me. Not from little old lonely macaroni me. Nope.

Two P’s in a Pod in a Pinch

eanutbutter and ickles

From KG-in-a-inch

Thought about you the other day: the NY Times had a write up in the food section about eanut butter & bread & butter ickle sandwiches. That is the one ickle I do like. Karin and my dog Mitchell were out of town all weekend seeing her mom in Roanoke. Kept telling myself – since I had all the ingredients – I was going to try this out. Kept chickening out.

My (used to be) aversion to ickles was 1.) thought erfectly fine cucumbers were messed with & 2.) (back when I would do McDonald’s – thought it was nervy of them to assume everyone wanted ickles on the cheeseburgers. Having quit smoking a couple of years ago find my alette has expanded. Such adventure ahead!

The verdict is in: Skippy Extra Crunchy w/ bread & butter ickles on lightly toasted  French bread = 100% winner!

Your encouragement was very helpful making this dive into the gastronomic unknown…..

Sandwich Monday: The PB&P

by Ian Chillag

NPR – October 29, 2012

The Peanut Butter & Pickle Sandwich dates back to the Great Depression. It’s great if you’re transported back in time to 1930 and you forget to bring Powerbars, or, say, if you’re stuck in your house with limited pantry options as a big hurricane heads your way. The New York Times says the PB&P is “a thrifty and unacknowledged American classic.”

Ian: As New York Times endorsed sandwiches go, this is way better than the Paul Krugwich.

Robert: It’s a weird combination. It’s a bad sign when even pregnant women won’t eat it.

Ian: The reason the Peanut Butter & Pickle sandwich was popular in the Great Depression was because people didn’t have money for the more traditional sandwich, the Anything & Anything Else.

Leah: Yeah. This pairs great with a nice shoelace and mule hoof stew.

Eva: This was part of FDR’s New Deal program to get unemployed pickles back to work.

Ian: Wow. It’s not bad. I haven’t been this surprised by a sandwich since that White Castle slider came to life and begged us to stop eating it.

Robert: Reese’s, are you listening? America wants a Pickle Butter Cup.

Eva: I always thought mixing peanut butter and pickles was lethal…or maybe that’s bleach and ammonia. Can’t remember.

Ian: Subbing in pickles is like having Tebow come off the bench. By that I mean pickles are bad at football.

[The verdict: surprisingly not bad. The pickles provide a nice texture and sweetness. That said, no one wanted more.]

Of course no one wanted more. They were satisfied!

Power Lunch


The world looks from different three inches up. And it looks back at you differently, too. On top of a pair of high heels my appetite is elevated, and the world’s appetite for me, too, is raised.

In Boston, Mary Sherman of the Transcultural Exchange, stepped out with me to Coppa for lunch where we enjoyed the sensual power of pig and the essential power of transendent friendship.

I found  Amy Cuddy on my TED app and her talk was thrilling.

“We’re fascinated with body language,” she says.

When we scrutinize ourselves, we think about how other people are judging us. We’re not wrong to do so. “We make sweeping judgments and inferences from body language, ” and those judgments can predict enormously important life outcomes.

But, says Cuddy, there is another half that we ignore, another audience. Ourselves. Does our own body language affect how we think of ourselves?

She studies power and dominance and starts by showing us a picture of primates. They expand, they take up space and occupy the space of other animals to show dominance.

Cuddy ran an experiment in which people were directed to pose in high-power and low-power poses, assigned randomly, for two minutes.

People in high status are found to be more risk-tolerant (and less responsive to stress). There were also physiological changes — participants also had about an 8% increase in testosterone. There was a similar, but reversed, pattern for cortisol. That’s significant because testosterone is associated with risk tolerance, and cortisol with stress response.

She ends her talk with an extraordinary request: Once you know this information about how easy it is to feel powerful — share it. Because it’s the people without power who aren’t in a position to learn these techniques. And empowering someone who truly needs that power could change a life.

 Smelling the pig tail with mostarda. I thought there was quince in my bowl but the waiter said no, only stone fruits. I was sitting and sniffing while he was standing. Does that make him right?

I like a big, absorbent napkin. The better to wipe your mouth with, my dear.

I had read it was a “best of” and it was. It was in front of me, it was sensational and I could not have asked for anything better. What a grinder. Meat was to cheese was to greens was to bread in a balance of powers that pulled and pushed and achieved absolute equilibrium.


Go on, put on those high heels, stretch out, feel yourself in space, relax, go for some pig tail, and please don’t crowd me.

Brag Mama Brag

My sister Mara, the brilliant historian, knows where to go and what to do and who to see and what to eat in DC. And I don’t mean the usual thing. She has no interest in the usual thing.

Mara is at work on an Anacostia Heritage Trail, for Cultural Tourism DC (www.culturaltourismdc.org). The trail will tell the neighborhood’s stories, including the pre-Civil War Uniontown, St. Elizabeths Hospital, the post-Civil War Freedmen’s village, Frederick Douglass, Barry Farm Dwellings (built during World War II), and much more, on 19 illustrated signs. In July Mara and colleague Jane Freundel Levey were in the neighborhood siting the signs when they stopped for lunch at Mama’s Kitchen.

When she found  Mama’s Kitchen at the corner of Maple View Place and Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue, SE, in Anacostia, she was looking for a little lunch.  The usual thing looked likely. She found treasure instead. PAYDIRT!

A few weeks later we met at Mama’s Kitchen for lunch. One of the owners, Musa Ulusan, sat down with us. Fatma Nayir, Mama, and Musa’s partner, was behind the counter shaping the wonderfully chewy handmade bread that carries all the sandwiches and pizzas.

Originally from mountainous eastern Turkey, Musa‘s ethnic background is Kurdish and Jewish, although he says that it’s food that runs in his blood.

While Mara and I tried not to wolf down the terrific garlic-spinach sandwiches Musa amused us with his life story. From the sounds of things, the man has nine lives.

I admit to being distracted – we did go there for lunch, after all, and I was starving, but I did catch a fair bit of the action. Musa and Fatma (who were then married) once owned an extensive string of restaurants in New Orleans until they were wiped out by Katrina. They relocated to the DC area and built up a new string of restaurants, only to be wiped out again by the bad economy.

With a tiny nest egg of $13,000, they sublet the spot on Maple View Place and set to cooking. Giving it to you straight – the food is fabulous.

Musa and Fatma have their eyes on a larger spot and perhaps another dynasty. Stay tuned. I wouldn’t put it past them. Perhaps they could get some ovens roaring a bit closer to me.

Hotfoot It!

 

The Best Wurst

Texans come by bratwurst honestly, as much as Midwesterners may believe this wurst to be theirs alone in the US.

There was, for many years, in Richmond, Virginia,TexasWisconsin Border Cafe, now closed I am sad to report. Austin, Texas and Madison, Wisconsin share an aesthetic and emotional border, methinks, cafe or no cafe. If you are gonna hotfoot it between the two, you best do it in your kitchen or your imagination. The mileage is impressive.

Recently I had the privilege of speaking with Jon Notarthomas, proprietor deluxe of The Best Wurst in Austin, Texas. A charming follow-up email warmed my wurst-lovin’ heart,  signed by Jon thusly, till then, me’new friend. 

Jon’s words are as follows.

Best Wurst is the oldest food vendor in Austin and definitely the forerunner of the Food Cart Craze that has taken off here. I like to say we are the most efficient kitchen in Austin working from a 4 x 5 foot cart that kicks out over 80,000 sandwiches a year. I believe we’ll be hitting the magic  “one million served” mark this year!

I know Chicago Food Critic Heather Shouse recently featured Best Wurst in her book Food Trucks.

She did. Good book. Stash it in your glovebox, take off your kid gloves and get yourself to eating.

My heart is warm for the Texas form, so near is it, and so simultaneously remote from, Wisconsin. The two are bound by a heritage accessorized by a string of sausages.

The Border Cafe was conveniently located between The Great Peanut Tour and home. If you drove as the crow flies you hit the cafe at half past lunch. Those were the days.