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Mr. Zevon 2

Dear Mr. Zevon

For today: My grilled cheese loving kid, who reminds me every day that unconditional love is our strongest and most enduring power.

YDF,

Midnight Snack

All Sandwich News Need Not Be Local

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According to a news release, the chain will open a Hagerstown location, its 29th, on Friday at 17301 Valley Mall. Primanti is a sandwich mainstay in Pittsburgh and other parts of Pennsylvania. Other outposts are in Ohio, Florida and West Virginia. Read on here.

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I like regional stuff to stay regional. When I can get whatever I want wherever I am it just doesn’t taste as good. Can’t blame Primanti for wanting to make a buck, but I will be sad to see this.

They also ship nationally for a mere $109. A bus ticket is cheaper and the adventure is longer lived.

Kewpie Mayonnaise

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Kewpie Mayonnaise

So, found an interesting new-to-me product and a luxe sandwich while at my day job. Kewpie Mayonnaise gave me that never-seen-it/now-it-is-everywhere experience.

To my good fortune, Meat and Livestock Australia– think super high quality lamb, beef and goat meat, used my foodstyling services this summer to help put together fifty images of fifty recipes. Working with recipes, rather than simply products, is always a learning experience for me and gives me a peek into other cook’s mindsets. The experience varies, which is probably part of the definition of experience.

 

Grass-fed Bulgolgi Style Beef Banh Mi
Yield: 4 servings
Portion Size: 1 sandwich
Alternate cuts:
Amount Prep Ingredient
4 loaves sliced Baguettes
1 cup prepared ahead Liver Spread
2 pounds 1/4” thinly sliced Australian Grass-fed Strip Steak
12 each ¼” thinly sliced Brie Cheese
½ cup picked Red Ribbon Sorrel Leaves
½ cup picked Cilantro Leaves
1 cup pickled, chopped Mix of Carrot, Daikon and Bell Pepper
¼ cup sliced Jalapenos
½ cup   Kewpie Mayonnaise
Method of Preparation
1.     Toast the sliced open baguettes until slightly crisped in a toaster oven, around 1 minute at 350F

2.     Spread the liver pate evenly on the bottom side.

3.     Add the sliced brisket, around 4 0z worth and spoon a little bit of the sauce that settled.

4.     Place 3 slices of the brie cheese over it.

5.     Add the Jalapeno, cilantro and pickled vegetables.

6.     Spread the kewpie mayonnaise on the other side of the bun.

7.     Season with salt and pepper and serve

 

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Recollections from Shirley

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Soup and sandwich, one of the pinnacles of modern pairings.

Today is my mother’s birthday and she turns 88. Still cooking, still frugal, still sharp as a tack.

Recently, I asked my mother about a soup she made often when she had kids at home, Calico Bean Soup, something I loved, something that may not be such a hit with kids – the ones I know – these days. What has changed? I do not know. Still, I’m going to make it when the weather turns cold again, upping the ham to win over the teenage boys around here.

There are lots and lots of Calico Bean Soup recipes on the internets. Did you know it was a thing? I did not.

In my mother’s words:

I made that bean soup here (in Alexandria, VA after we moved from Wisconsin in 1966) because the church sold the packages of beans.

I called two old members of the church, each of whom remembered something. One informant thought there were 13 kinds of peas and beans, but no one is sure anymore. It was called Calico Bean soup and had the following: at least 2 colors of lentils, kidney beans, lima beans, Great Northerns, pea beans, black beans, adzuki beans (hard to find and not many used), maybe yellow peas, maybe green split peas.

They went to a  health food store in Alexandria to buy the beans/peas, then mixed up the beans in a big garbage can, packaged them, and included a recipe using a ham bone and an onion.  

Jo Jackley said that once it began to cook, all the beans turned the same color, but the shapes and sizes were different. Bea Bobotek still has a package from some years ago.

Calico Bean Soup

From A Hollin Hall Sampler” page 14, available (still!) at Amazon

This is a good basic recipe which you can vary to suit your own tastes. One of our church cooks uses 2-3 pounds of beef short ribs instead of the ham bone, also adding 1 can of beef bouillon for more beef flavor. Toward the end of the cooking time, she adds cut-up  vegetables, carrots, celery, and onions and pops in some pasta at the very end.

Package of beans sold by church, containing 15 kinds of beans, both plain and exotic.

Wash beans thoroughly. Place in a large kettle, cover with water. Add 2 Tbsp. salt and soak overnight. drain in the morning.

To the beans, add: Ham bone or 2 ham hocks and water to cover.
Simmer slowly 2 1/2 -3 hours.
Add: 1 large onion, chopped
1 28-oz. can tomatoes
1 8-oz. can tomato sauce
1 large pod red pepper (optional) or 1 tsp. chili powder
1 clove garlic, minced
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
Few dashes Tabasco (optional)
Simmer another 30 minutes or so.

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The Sandwich Generation

Approaching a decade birthday I sometimes feel that I’m taking a slow walk to the gallows. Approaching the same birthday I sometimes feel I’m leaping into ecstasy, exaltation, euphoria, the essence. Pulled. In. Two. Directions.

Simultaneously,   I’m enduring the most isolating stretch of parenting – shepherding a teenager. Maybe it’s not the most isolating – could there be a tougher stretch upcoming? –  but it feels that way.

My parents are elderly. I’m fortunate (gross understatement) that not only are my parents alive, but we are close, they are flourishing, they live near by, love my son and are people I admire and respect. I’m grateful, thrilled, glad.

Sometimes I am distressed, distraught, discouraged, despondent. Simply put, looking at the beginnings of old age, loving parents who are in old age, loving a child who is (as he should be) scaring the living daylights out of me while blowing my mind with his wisdom, wit and wonder, feels like a leap into the wild blue yonder. AND like being smashed between two pieces of firm bread.

Guess what, there is a name for people like me. We are a demographic. Of course we are. The sandwich generation.

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Make Me a Sandwich, IN BED


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Though the whole women-making-sandwiches thing can sometimes feel like a truly archaic stereotype, the whoopie cushion of sexism, it apparently isn’t dead yet. Just ask Fox News host and former Real World cast member Rachel Campos-Duffy and co-host Andrea Tantaros, who think that offering your husband grilled cheeses on the reg is the key to preserving your marriage.

A few weeks ago, Tantaros received flak for recommending that women make sandwiches for their men after sex. “After you engage in a little horizontal hula, make him a sandwich,” she argued. “That’s not called the 1950s! That’s called kindness!”
Read on (if you can stomach it) here.

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Donkeys – the New Goat or Ancient History?

Did the sandwich originate in China? Will we ever know? My bets are on yes to both.

Would I eat a donkey burger? I do not know. Donkey lard, well, bleh, but I am not ashamed to eat pig. Does that make me a hypocrite? Yes. Were I in China, I would most likely do as I try my best to do, eat what is served.

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Lucky Peach guide to Chinese sandwiches

DONKEY BURGER
驴肉火烧 LU ROU HUO SHAO

Two towns, Baoding and Hejian, claim to be the home of the donkey burger, but they differ mainly in the shape of the bun: a light griddle-toasted flatbread that gets its flaky texture from donkey lard. Baoding’s are round, while Hejian’s are rectangular, but the middle of both is all donkey (and maybe a diced green pepper). The donkey tastes like corned beef. The popularity of the sandwich might explain the local idiom in Hebei Province: “In heaven there is dragon meat, on earth there is donkey meat.”

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Ramen is the New Bread

Around this household. I have a ramen eating machine living under my roof. He’s been in lifelong training – redirect, redirect, redirect! – but the positive reinforcement – “How about a nice piece of fruit, honey?” – has not imprinted. Yet. I hope to someday pass the baton to his wife.

 

In the meantime, there are many years of cooking and eating to travel. I choose to lose the battle of ramen and win the war of love. Does he know the ramen is homemade? Maybe. Will that imbed? You betcha.

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MTL Blog – How to make it.

Curiouser and Curiouser – The Runza

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The James Beard Foundation’s word on wiches states that the runza is the official sandwich of Nebraska, described thusly:  a yeast-dough pocket filled with ground beef, onions, sauerkraut, and seasonings. It is also called a bierock. Cool name, methinks.

Along-for-the-Ride Heidi (H7) was the first to tell me about the runza, a delicious torpedo-shaped meat, cabbage and onion turnover sort of thing that migrated from Nebraska to Colorado about 30 years ago.

In H7’s words:

I can’t remember the first time I tried Runza. I think it was fairly soon after a Runza franchise opened in my home town of Loveland, Colorado, in 1983. (I never put 2+2 together that the sandwich was a lower-case-r runza.) Runza® started in 1949 in Lincoln, Nebraska—there is a nice history on the website (www.runza.com).

From first taste, I loved the runza so much. It is ground beef with cabbage and onions and peppery spices baked inside a rectangular shaped bread pocket. I would usually get the cheese option, which is the aforementioned with a slice of cheese inside.

When I moved to California in 1988, my parents sent me a dozen frozen runzas on dry ice (or maybe Runza did it for them) at my request, so I could enjoy them from afar.

Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.59.29 AMIn these parts, should you want a runza – and I do! – there are lots of recipes on the internets, naturally. I like this one and will run it as a Lunch Encounter special just as soon as the weather turns the corner to cool.

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Nebraskan Runza – Bierocks – Recipe here.

Broccoli Is Having a Moment

Witness Tyler Kord’s No. 7 Sub Broccoli Sandwich.  Lincoln Station Broccoli and Ricotta Sandwich testifying loud and proud right here at the Lunch Encounter. Did somebody say Grilled Goat Cheese and Broccoli Sandwich? Oh yeah! You know you’re on to something, or perhaps way behind the curve, when a search turns up Ten Best Broccoli Sandwiches. Huh? Yup. Screen Shot 2015-08-12 at 4.53.16 PM No. 7 Sub turns up at every turn for the NYC sandwich sleuth. When there is that much chatter, one must investigate.IMG_5059We joined the masses who sing the praises and eat their greens. Hall-lay-lew-yuh and pass the broccoli.IMG_5064IMG_5070
It was a beautiful day for sandwiches in a pocket park. Crystal clear and appetite awakening.

No. 7 Broccoli Sub Recipe
from Tyler Kord in “Broccoli” by Shortstack Editions

Makes 2 huge subs

1 can pitted lychees (available at Asian markets), drained and quartered
1 garlic clove, minced
One 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
A few drops of sesame oil
1 tablespoon sugar
2 small dried chiles, chopped (I prefer tien tsin chiles, available at Asian markets, or chiles
de arbol, available at Mexican markets, but a teaspoon of red chile flakes will work)
1 cup white vinegar
2 scallions, thinly sliced on a bias
2 soft Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 pound broccoli, cooked
4 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 cup fried shallots (the Vietnamese ones found at Asian markets, but any fried onions, store-bought or homemade, will do)

In a mixing bowl, combine the lychees, garlic, ginger, shallot, sesame oil, sugar, chiles, vinegar and scallions. Let sit for at least an hour.

In an oven preheated to 375 degrees, toast the sub rolls and reheat the broccoli if necessary.

Spread 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise on each of the sub rolls, then use tongs to stuff the rolls with broccoli. Top each sandwich with a little bit of the lychee muchin, followed by the ricotta salata, pine nuts, and fried shallots. Serve.

From Tyler Kord’s forthcoming cookbook, Broccoli, available from Short Stack Editions.

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ABOUT THE BOOK:

“Eat your broccoli.” No other chef has taken this childhood prescription to heart as much as Tyler Kord, one of New York’s most innovative chefs and a professed broccoli enthusiast. Tyler’s edition will teach you many new innovative ways to enjoy this flavorful and nutrient-rich vegetable, and show you just what a flavor chameleon it can be.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Tyler Kord is a chef and restaurateur in New York City. He is the owner of No. 7 in Brooklyn’s Ft. Greene neighborhood and the No. 7 Sub sandwich shops at the Ace Hotel, The Plaza, Brooklyn Bridge Park, and in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. He has worked for chef Alain Sailhac at the French Culinary Institute and chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Perry St. Tyler also has a B.A. in English from Oberlin College and his parents can’t believe that his education might have actually been a useful part of his life as he tries to write a cookbook that is not embarrassing.