Category Archives: Uncategorized

Donkeys – the New Goat or Ancient History?

Did the sandwich originate in China? Will we ever know? My bets are on yes to both.

Would I eat a donkey burger? I do not know. Donkey lard, well, bleh, but I am not ashamed to eat pig. Does that make me a hypocrite? Yes. Were I in China, I would most likely do as I try my best to do, eat what is served.

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Lucky Peach guide to Chinese sandwiches

DONKEY BURGER
驴肉火烧 LU ROU HUO SHAO

Two towns, Baoding and Hejian, claim to be the home of the donkey burger, but they differ mainly in the shape of the bun: a light griddle-toasted flatbread that gets its flaky texture from donkey lard. Baoding’s are round, while Hejian’s are rectangular, but the middle of both is all donkey (and maybe a diced green pepper). The donkey tastes like corned beef. The popularity of the sandwich might explain the local idiom in Hebei Province: “In heaven there is dragon meat, on earth there is donkey meat.”

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Ramen is the New Bread

Around this household. I have a ramen eating machine living under my roof. He’s been in lifelong training – redirect, redirect, redirect! – but the positive reinforcement – “How about a nice piece of fruit, honey?” – has not imprinted. Yet. I hope to someday pass the baton to his wife.

 

In the meantime, there are many years of cooking and eating to travel. I choose to lose the battle of ramen and win the war of love. Does he know the ramen is homemade? Maybe. Will that imbed? You betcha.

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MTL Blog – How to make it.

Curiouser and Curiouser – The Runza

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The James Beard Foundation’s word on wiches states that the runza is the official sandwich of Nebraska, described thusly:  a yeast-dough pocket filled with ground beef, onions, sauerkraut, and seasonings. It is also called a bierock. Cool name, methinks.

Along-for-the-Ride Heidi (H7) was the first to tell me about the runza, a delicious torpedo-shaped meat, cabbage and onion turnover sort of thing that migrated from Nebraska to Colorado about 30 years ago.

In H7’s words:

I can’t remember the first time I tried Runza. I think it was fairly soon after a Runza franchise opened in my home town of Loveland, Colorado, in 1983. (I never put 2+2 together that the sandwich was a lower-case-r runza.) Runza® started in 1949 in Lincoln, Nebraska—there is a nice history on the website (www.runza.com).

From first taste, I loved the runza so much. It is ground beef with cabbage and onions and peppery spices baked inside a rectangular shaped bread pocket. I would usually get the cheese option, which is the aforementioned with a slice of cheese inside.

When I moved to California in 1988, my parents sent me a dozen frozen runzas on dry ice (or maybe Runza did it for them) at my request, so I could enjoy them from afar.

Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.59.29 AMIn these parts, should you want a runza – and I do! – there are lots of recipes on the internets, naturally. I like this one and will run it as a Lunch Encounter special just as soon as the weather turns the corner to cool.

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Nebraskan Runza – Bierocks – Recipe here.

Broccoli Is Having a Moment

Witness Tyler Kord’s No. 7 Sub Broccoli Sandwich.  Lincoln Station Broccoli and Ricotta Sandwich testifying loud and proud right here at the Lunch Encounter. Did somebody say Grilled Goat Cheese and Broccoli Sandwich? Oh yeah! You know you’re on to something, or perhaps way behind the curve, when a search turns up Ten Best Broccoli Sandwiches. Huh? Yup. Screen Shot 2015-08-12 at 4.53.16 PM No. 7 Sub turns up at every turn for the NYC sandwich sleuth. When there is that much chatter, one must investigate.IMG_5059We joined the masses who sing the praises and eat their greens. Hall-lay-lew-yuh and pass the broccoli.IMG_5064IMG_5070
It was a beautiful day for sandwiches in a pocket park. Crystal clear and appetite awakening.

No. 7 Broccoli Sub Recipe
from Tyler Kord in “Broccoli” by Shortstack Editions

Makes 2 huge subs

1 can pitted lychees (available at Asian markets), drained and quartered
1 garlic clove, minced
One 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
A few drops of sesame oil
1 tablespoon sugar
2 small dried chiles, chopped (I prefer tien tsin chiles, available at Asian markets, or chiles
de arbol, available at Mexican markets, but a teaspoon of red chile flakes will work)
1 cup white vinegar
2 scallions, thinly sliced on a bias
2 soft Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 pound broccoli, cooked
4 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 cup fried shallots (the Vietnamese ones found at Asian markets, but any fried onions, store-bought or homemade, will do)

In a mixing bowl, combine the lychees, garlic, ginger, shallot, sesame oil, sugar, chiles, vinegar and scallions. Let sit for at least an hour.

In an oven preheated to 375 degrees, toast the sub rolls and reheat the broccoli if necessary.

Spread 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise on each of the sub rolls, then use tongs to stuff the rolls with broccoli. Top each sandwich with a little bit of the lychee muchin, followed by the ricotta salata, pine nuts, and fried shallots. Serve.

From Tyler Kord’s forthcoming cookbook, Broccoli, available from Short Stack Editions.

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ABOUT THE BOOK:

“Eat your broccoli.” No other chef has taken this childhood prescription to heart as much as Tyler Kord, one of New York’s most innovative chefs and a professed broccoli enthusiast. Tyler’s edition will teach you many new innovative ways to enjoy this flavorful and nutrient-rich vegetable, and show you just what a flavor chameleon it can be.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Tyler Kord is a chef and restaurateur in New York City. He is the owner of No. 7 in Brooklyn’s Ft. Greene neighborhood and the No. 7 Sub sandwich shops at the Ace Hotel, The Plaza, Brooklyn Bridge Park, and in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. He has worked for chef Alain Sailhac at the French Culinary Institute and chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Perry St. Tyler also has a B.A. in English from Oberlin College and his parents can’t believe that his education might have actually been a useful part of his life as he tries to write a cookbook that is not embarrassing.

Crab Happy – Crisfield’s

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Why Crisfield’s isn’t overrun by hipsters, I do not know. Crisfield Seafood is superb. Effortlessly so, seemingly. And it is not swarming with neophytes, hooray.
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I am truly, madly, deeply in love with this old flame. Forgive me my lapses, I have been away waywayway too long.
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Crab Cake, Crab Salad, Fried Perch, Oyster, SOFTSHELL. Get thee to a softshell. So tender and sweet when they have just shed the straightjacket of youth – one of their youths to be precise. Back to the vulnerability of infancy, they are tasty, poor things.

Screen Shot 2015-07-06 at 5.46.47 PM  Soft shells, in season, the tastiest insect-like thing you will ever eat. A reason to live when you are grappling with February’s mid-Atlantic death grip.

Crisfield Seafood is old DC, the DC that patronized Reeve’s Bakery and RestaurantWhitlow’s on E Street Screen Shot 2015-07-06 at 5.57.46 PM, Scholl’s CafeteriaScreen Shot 2015-07-06 at 5.54.32 PM, the original Old Ebbitt Grill Screen Shot 2015-07-06 at 5.53.25 PM, the counter at People’s Screen Shot 2015-07-06 at 6.00.07 PM, and Schwartz’s Drugs lunch counter Screen Shot 2015-07-06 at 6.11.43 PM.IMG_4797

Crisfield’s is not a ghost of DC past. It lives and breathes.

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They do not serve oysters in the summer, there are four to a plate of softshells and the counterman heartily recommends the cheesecake. We admired his salesmanship and shared a slice – creamy, nutty, caramely, fresh, just as promised.

IMG_4798I weighed almost 3 pounds more on the way out. Going to GospelFest for a little cardio.

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Lebaneez Pleez

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I did some work for the Muncheez people and I liked them. Very much.  High, drunk, deranged, crazed, starved? photo 2 photo 1-1Muncheez may look like a place to get yer fix when you got the munchies and it is! Cause you are a discerning individual.photo 4You will walk, uber, careen, the extra kilometer for Muncheez.   photo 1-2

A righteous undertaking. And rewarded.

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Extra! Extra! NYTimes Says “Sandwiches Are Where It’s At”

Holy cow. The field guide. Whatever.

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Bout time. Bandwagon’s been idling at the corner of Sliced Bread and Hold the Onion forEVAH.

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What Is Your Secret Talent?

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From the Times…thank you so much for the introduction…

Hugo Guinness, the English-born, Brooklyn-based artist, fashion collaborator and voice actor. Mr. Guiness’ fine-lined drawings echo the work he is known for: coveted lino cut prints, drawings and paintings. He trades the paintbrush for the pen for his ongoing collaboration with the film director Wes Anderson. Guinness’s own home was the model for the Tenenbaum family’s dollhouse-like mansion. He is also a writing partner with Anderson, and the duo recently received an Oscar nomination for Best Original Screenplay for “The Grand Budapest Hotel.”

He is a secret of sorts himself, to me that is, and I am thrilled he was revealed to me by the Lovely and Eternally Patient Susan Trosper.

Read and see more here. The slideshow reveals some of Mr. Guiness’ inner workings.  It is that time of year in cold, dark places – the time of year when our cold, dark inner workings become magnified.

What is my secret talent? Digging deep into lightless, icy caverns here. My secret talent is. Well, I do not have any. Either I have already told you or…the thing I thought I was good at has been revealed to be a flaw. Ah yes, I got it now.  My secret talent is making the sound of a contented guinea pig. Not the high whistle but the funny low chuck-clucking they make when nesting.

What is YOUR secret talent?

Spread Thin

Sandwich pic

Such a sweet picture. Radish roses. My mom made those. Radish roses could be found in our refrigerator before dinner parties, floating in blue-topped, dishwasher-warped, Tupperware tall boys. That would have been in the 60’s, I suppose.

My mother was no shrinking violet, particularly in terms of politics, civil rights, women’s rights. She picketed George Wallace – alone. And she made radish roses. Was it a rosy time? Yeah, it was, sorta. Optimistically rosy, sorta. So many things such a mess, not tidy like our fridge. So much to do, not enough time to do it.

Then came the 70’s, out went the roses.