The daily fresh-pulled mozzarella runs out before the line of customers at Salumi, started by Armandino Batali (Mario’s dad). Don’t let the curing bats of fennel-studded finocchiona dangling from meat hooks distract: You want the porchetta — braised-until-melting pork shoulder with peppers, carrots, and onions on a stout roll to soak up the profligate juices.
Esquire, March 2008
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